“Matelasse” Fabrics and Properties
“Matelasse” Kumaşlar ve Özellikleri

Author : Fatma Nur BAŞARAN - Nazan ÖZCAN
Number of pages : 81-98

Abstract

Textile is a very wide concept that covers all processes ranging from the first raw material to the product and instructions for use, and offers products from the most basic need to fashion trends, which are shaped according to the technological developments. Each area of use requires differences such as structure, shape, texture, appearance, etc. Thus, the recognition of the production and material diversity in every segment of the society is ensured by special classifications and nomenclature developed in line with its characteristic features. Some products in the textile industry have unique features at the time of production, while some turn into end products with techniques such as finishing processes or sewing. Today, Matelasse fabrics, which are shaped in production processes thanks to technological systems and separated from quilting terms in this respect, are thick, composite structures produced by using filling material between two fabric layers. The term Matelasse was used for fabrics produced by imitation of quilts made by quilting technique, which is the traditional handicraft of the province of Marseille (France), and these fabrics were evaluated in inner pockets as part of women's clothing. This fabric, which is increasing in popularity and attracting attention, has been transformed into a fashion product, has initially become preferred in underwear and then in many garments, and jacquard systems have been developed for its rapid production. The fabric, whose physical and technical properties have been evaluated for use in different functions, has been produced in various versions and patents have been obtained. In fact, although this patent information has been developed at a superior level and used in collections by famous fashion designers and it has a brand face, there is not much research in the literature that deals with production processes and technical aspects. In companies producing in this direction, it is known by various names such as quilting, pique knitting and bag knitting. In this study, which was conducted in order to ensure the use of common terms and exemplify them with their production and technical characteristics, Matelasse fabrics, the usage area of which increased with relief / bulky surface, rich pattern possibilities, soft texture properties, were examined in woven and knitted fabric groups. With the literature and field work, the information obtained about Matelasse fabrics' place in history, technical features, production methods etc. was evaluated, and fabric simulations were prepared by making technical analyses.

Keywords

Matelasse, textile, weaving, knitting

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